Portuguese gastronomy in the spotlight

A cultural aspect of Portugal that is sometimes overlooked, is that the country prides itself on its gastronomy. You may not know this, and I must admit I was pleasantly surprised. For example, I used to think that tapas were eaten in Spain...

When I noticed the presence of small bites at the counter of a tasca (understand tavern), I dove in. And it was with joy that I tasted the delicious petiscos such as Bolo de Caco, a small sweet potato bread or Rissois (fritters).

Another surprise was the numerous pastry shops displaying sweets made from almonds, sugar and invariably egg yolk but why so? Diving into guides, here is what I discovered. The Portuguese used the egg white to filter their white wine. As they didn’t know what to do with the leftover yolk, they would give it to convents and monasteries which turned them into cakes. Finally, I expected to drink wine from the Douro Valley and had in mind the Quinita da Gricha that produced Churchill's Porto. Well, the Portuguese cherish coffee which they roast slowly giving it notes of flowers and cinnamon. Speaking of which, some Art Nouveau establishments are a true delight, like the Majestic café in Porto.

The capital of Lisbon boasts delicacies that will delight your taste buds. If you appreciate cod, then you have chosen your destination well, as it comes in various forms: carpaccio, fillet, fritter, or even its brandade, the Bacalhau à Brás. What are the secrets of its preparation? Regarding cod, it is crucial to desalinate it through a drip method. It is then carefully deboned, and the potatoes are finally chopped. If I say Sardinhas Assadas, can you guess what it is? Yet, what makes them so succulent is that they are marinated in coarse salt and grilled over charcoal. Moreover, they are served on slices of cornbread and grilled peppers. Now, let me talk to you about the octopus.

Polvo à lagareiro is cooked like a stew, and then the meat is grilled which keeps it tender. The sauce is made from Portuguese olive oil - delicious, by the way, parsley, and garlic. As often in Portugal, this dish is served with potatoes. Are you planning to visit the Jerónimos Monastery? Excellent idea, but take the opportunity to have a gourmet break and taste the real Pasteis de Belem. Under the vaults decorated with blue azulejos, you discover Ali Baba’s cave. The atmosphere is family-friendly, and these puff pastry shells filled with an egg cream are fresh out of the oven, what a delight!

If you like sweet treats, the Torta de Azeitao will test your resolutions. It is a pastry in the shape of a roll and recognizable by its yellow color, which comes from the egg yolk but also from … the corn it is made of.

The city that houses a fantastical summer palace and a park with Japanese camellias enjoys a rainy climate. It therefore offers a breath of fresh air to visitors but it also synonymous with gastronomy. For my part, I loved the Queijadas de Sintra. I am talking about these pastries made from fresh cheese and eggs, cinnamon, milk, sugar, and butter! Needless to say, all the ingredients are there to make it delicious! Sometimes, it is flavored with coconut, in which case it is the Brazilian version.

Still on the subject of sweets, let me introduce you to piriquita. This time, I imagine you are giving your tongue to the cat. It's simply a puff pastry filled with almonds and I don’t know about you, but personally it reminds me of the galette des rois…

Have you ever wondered how this wine came about? As French wines undergo an embargo, an English merchant decides to mix Portuguese wines with brandy from the grape must and thus port was born.

Once in Porto, you will notice a funny kind of croque-monsieur topped with melted cheese. It's the Francesinha, and it is usually surrounded by a heap of fries. If you find these fries particularly successful, it's because they are soaked in a beer sauce! Porto is famous for its creamed cod or Bacalhau a conde da Guarda. It is sprinkled with nutmeg, Parmesan, and garlic. Another variant is the Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa. This time it involves a cod stew whose traditional accompaniment remains potatoes.

It would be a real pity to miss out on the Portuguese bouillabaisse with good local vegetables chopped up and simmered slowly that is featured on restaurant menus. It is called Caldeirada de Peixe. How is it different from the Marseille specialty? Perhaps it's the addition of green peppers and tomatoes. Around Aveiro, you will enjoy Ovos Moles. Imagine a paste wrapped in a wafer shaped like a seashell. To finish, dine on Arroz de Mariscos, a kind of seafood paella that is absolutely to die for.

The Algarve region has many sophisticated recipes, each more refined than the last. The Cataplana, named after the terrine used to prepare it, is monkfish cooked at a low temperature. It also comes with clams or shellfish. Additionally, Arroz de Lingueirao or razor clam rice is to die for. To make it, seafood is allowed to purge itself of sand.

Lovers of sweet potatoes rave about the Aljezur cake, sometimes referred to as the bread of the poor, yet famously delicious. How surprised I was by this dish, which is similar to a cassoulet, the Feijoada de Buzios! And do you know why? Sure, it contains coco beans but also whelks!

I am going to continue to surprise you with the Xarem con Conquilhas. It is in the town of Tavira that you should preferably enjoy this specialty made of cornmeal, bacon... The Morgadinho made from pumpkin and egg yolk is a real delight. And why not try a carob and fig pie - alfarroba in Portuguese unless you would prefer a Don Rodrigo, a pastry wrapped in metallic paper...

PS: for those with a sweet tooth who want to extend their experience, buy local Pilchardus sardines