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Discover Provence, a true land of artists.

Image Discover Provence, a true land of artists.

Discovering the South

Let's walk in the footsteps of the painters, writers, or architects who have glorified one of the sunniest regions of France...

Marseille

2020 is celebrated as the Giono year. Moreover, an exhibition dedicated to the writer-filmmaker who died 50 years ago will be held in October in Marseille. The "stationary traveler" as he is sometimes called, a native of Manosque, had an boundless love for his region in which he spent his entire life. Another pen like Pagnol who brilliantly depicted Provence and the character of its inhabitants, like Panisse, the master sailmaker of the Old Port. Perhaps you don't know, but this writer is the second most read right after Victor Hugo!

When you say Marseille, you naturally think of Alexandre Dumas who set the backdrop of the adventures of the Count of Monte Cristo at the Château d'If across from Marseille. Cézanne, for his part, continually depicted the Montagne Sainte-Victoire and Van Gogh was mesmerized by the light of Provence. Finally, it was in Marseille that Le Corbusier envisioned the Cité Radieuse, a wildly ambitious architectural project for its time. It goes without saying that Provence has fueled the imagination of many artists.

When you say Marseille, you obviously think of Alexandre Dumas who set the adventures of the Count of Monte Cristo at the Château d'If, off the coast of Marseille.

Pagnol sets some of his adventures in the Phocaean city. Although the academician preferred the idyllic setting of the Alpilles where his family settled when he was 9 years old, he did not hesitate to reconstruct places to give them a more local color. It must be acknowledged that this is a real tour de force since we perfectly adhere to his fiction.   

The Port of Marseille

One of the places he didn’t alter much is the Old Port which retained its authentic look. Above all, one would stroll along its quays, linger at the terraces of the restaurants, and discuss the game of pétanque over a pastis limonana. Admittedly, the place is more popular today, which is why if you want to relive this Pagnol-like atmosphere, make a stop at the Café des Arts, a spot frequented by locals where sea urchins are served!

Overlooking the harbor is Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, nicknamed "the good mother" by the people of Marseille because she watches over their salvation. Built on the foundations of an old fort, this sanctuary with its towering bell tower belongs to the Romano-Byzantine style. Why a fort? François 1er needed to defend the city, so he had this fortress and the If one built. Did you know? Members of the Bourbon family were imprisoned there during the French Revolution…

"The Basket district with a thousand washes hanging from the windows," that is how Pagnol described this oldest part of Marseille. It was the Greek colony of Massalia that settled there 600 years ago. Wander around and you will hear the residents living with their windows open. Moreover, the neighborhood, which is full of cobbled streets and small squares, was once a hotbed of banditry. Time has passed and the bobos have stormed this part of the city where you will find art galleries.

Its monuments

Welcome to the Cité Radieuse, sometimes nicknamed "Maison du fada"! Built in the 50s, the masterful work of Le Corbusier has become a historic monument and a world heritage site. It includes numerous apartments but also "extensions of the home", in other words, communal spaces: bakery, bar, bookstore... and on the roof-terrace, a kindergarten. But did you know? The architect applied principles such as the golden ratio or the Fibonacci sequence to define its dimensions!

How to visit Marseille without stopping by the Château d'If to experience the ultimate thrill... What's most incredible is that Alexandre Dumas was inspired by real events to create the character of Edmond Dantes. Denounced as a Bonapartist, he is arrested and imprisoned for 14 years before seizing the treasure and fulfilling his revenge. The author acquires it, and you can see with your own eyes his study and a gallery of portraits: Dante, Shakespeare… It's up to you to identify them!   

The Mucem like a floating cube on the Mediterranean… While Marseille was the European Capital of Culture in 2013, the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations was inaugurated. As it spans across 3 locations, take the time to delve into its website. The permanent collections cover archaeology, anthropology, and art history!

NB: For the lovers of Pagnol, visit the Treille neighborhood in the 11th district. The writer-filmmaker reconstituted a village there. He used the town hall, the Cigalon inn, and the fountain - the one that dries up in Manon des Sources!

  • Sénanque Abbey
  • Avignon Bridge
  • Arles Amphitheatre
  • Camargue Horses

The Camargue

The Camargue carries a lot of images: marshes, wild horses, glasswort... Rich in 20,000 hectares, located in the Rhône delta, it has a unique culture exemplified by the "gardians" or cowherds. To grasp this lifestyle, why not visit a manade such as the Picard estate in Méjanes? In Sainte Marie de la Mer, a major pilgrimage site for the Romani people, you will discover, to your surprise, the Church of Our Lady of the Sea and its devotion to the Black Madonna.

Arles

Heading inland from Marseille, make your way to Arles for its photography meetings that have breathed new life into the ancient city bordered by the Rhône. Last year, the festival celebrated its 50th anniversary, and the focus was on photojournalism. You'll move from one private hotel to another! In the evening, stroll through the narrow streets between Provençal houses lined with flowering laurels.

From Marseille, the calanques offer an escape. You are spoilt for choice, and I would suggest Port Miou at the site of an old limestone quarry or Port Pin for its steep cliffs unless you are looking for a fine sandy beach. In that case, opt for Sormiou and its crystal-clear waters.

Avignon and its surroundings...

Avignon is indeed known for its festival or for its famous song. Speaking of which, it was under the Bénézet bridge, not over it, that people danced. Apart from these two attractions, the city has long been an episcopal town. It is associated with the Demoiselles d'Avignon, the letters from my mill, the hussard on the roof... Feature films such as Pierrot le fou or Mr. Bean's Holiday were also shot there! Not to forget the Avignon Festival, a meeting place for international artists.

A few cables away, treat yourself to a bike climb only if you are an experienced cyclist! Mont Ventoux, a mountain 1900 m high, is particularly stony. It's no wonder it's sometimes nicknamed the bald mountain! Originally, there is a geological phenomenon: the waters run down from the summit over the limestone earth.  

Aix-en-Provence

What if we visited Aix-en-Provence ? The capital of the Dukes of Provence was at its glory during the 15th and 16th centuries. This past grandeur is noticeable in its ornate doorways and the ironwork on its balconies. Zola and Stendhal had a great attachment to the city. Beyond the cathedral or the clock tower, I enjoy the Mazarin district for its pedestrian streets. Do not miss the workshop of Cézanne, the impressionist painter who immortalized the Sainte-Victoire mountain.

On the outskirts of Aix, the lavender fields stretch out, not to be confused with lavandin, whose fragrances are less pronounced. When is the best time to visit them? Ideally between June 15 and July 15, as that is when they produce their finest flowers. When there, you'll definitely want to take a photo! Just don’t think about picking a spike – it’s strictly forbidden… PS: Once in the Luberon, make your way to Gordes and the Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey in the Cistercian style.

The Verdon Gorge

Thirsty for freshness? Then opt for the Verdon Gorges and its spectacular panoramas! The canyon has been carved into the rock by the eponymous river. Take the opportunity to visit Moustiers Sainte-Marie, which is among the most beautiful villages in France. Treat yourself to a lunch break at one of its restaurants that serve authentic Provençal cuisine: tapenade, pissaladière, poutargue, fougasse…

In the Natural Park of the Alpilles lie villages like Saint Rémy-de-Provence. Van Gogh stayed there between 1889 and 1890 following a depression. From his hospital room, he produced 150 paintings as well as drawings. This is evidenced by Starry Night and the Irises. If you appreciate painting, embark on a roughly one-hour walking tour thanks to well-thought-out signage! To enrich your knowledge, a free app van Gogh natures is even available for download!

Thirsty for freshness? Then opt for the Verdon Gorges and its spectacular panoramas!

Les Baux-de-Provence. Certainly, the place is popular among tourists, but how could it not be? It features a castle classified as a historical monument! Personally, the audio guide was very helpful to me, as were the explanatory panels, so I recommend that you take the tour by yourself.

If you enjoyed this tour of Provence, then join us for a feature on the Côte d'Azur !