The Cévennes: a breathtaking hike between nature and historic villages

Robert Louis Stevenson undertook a 12-day journey through the Cévennes in 1878, and it must be mentioned that he was traveling with a donkey! Starting from Monastier, he headed due south, crossed through Lozère, and reached Saint-Jean-du-Gard. What led the then 28-year-old writer to hit the road?

Apparently a heartache: he had fallen in love with an American painter Fanny Osbourne who had permanently returned to live in her native country. Moreover, his admiration for George Sand, who set her novel Villemer in the Velay, certainly played a role in his decision. Finally, he was strongly influenced by reading The Pilgrim’s Progress by the Calvinist John Bunyan.

The travel narrative of Stevenson, which heavily relied on a journal he kept, received a very warm welcome, making the path popular among his followers. However, after World War II, the route took on the character of a sports course and a way to discover natural heritage. It even became a roadway! But this was without counting on the French Hiking Federation, which teamed up with the Cévennes National Park to establish the GR 70 or Stevenson Trail in 1978—exactly 100 years after Stevenson's journey. I propose to cover the stages that make up the route in 12 days as well.

Warning: it is intended for good walkers as you will trek on average 6 hours a day encountering elevations!

The travel narrative of Stevenson which heavily relies on a logbook he kept, received a very good reception, making the path popular among his followers.

Before joining the first leg of the Stevenson Trail, we will stop at Le Puy-en-Velay. There we will learn that its bishopric enjoyed great autonomy, that its cathedral withstood the assault of the Cévennes Huguenots, or that its black virgin is made from the volcanic stone of the region. Nestled, the city bathed by 2 rivers is best appreciated from the Aguihle hill overlooking it.

Then we will reach the village of Monastier where the Stevenson trail begins with the GR70. There, in addition to the abbey, you will discover the presence of a very select club, that of Stevenson! Fellow hikers, your path, for its part, starts in the hamlet of Les Ours and goes through the Bel Air path!

From Monastier to Bouchet Saint Nicolas via the GR70. Are you familiar with the Velay plateaus? This is your chance to travel this beautiful 23 KM long stage. All the better, it will make you forget the slopes! On the way, you will stop at the Beaufort Castle, an open-air medieval fortress, and at the 100 m deep crater lake of Bouchet!

Then will come the stage between Bouchet Saint Nicolas and Pradelles. You will overlook fields planted with the famous green lentils of Le Puy. Soon, Pradelles will emerge—one of the most beautiful villages in France with its tall stone facades exposed to the gusts from the Cévennes. It is also located on the Régordane route that facilitates trade between the Île de France and Languedoc, and it is crossed by transhumance.

From Pradelles to Fouzilhac. During this shorter stage, you will either be accommodated in a overnight gite upon arrival or you will sleep at the Moure refuge, a large building with green shutters that also offers guest meals. In Langogne, you will walk through the lands of Gévaudan! The beast that terrorized the area between 1764 and 1767 forced Louis XV, who had become the laughingstock of Europe, to send the army there!

From Fouzilhac, you will reach Luc, then descend and since your stage is shorter, you can take a detour through Laveyrune and spend the night at the Colonie de l’Espoir, a building that used to host holiday camps and has been converted into a lodge for walkers. At 1000 m of altitude, on 13000 m2 of meadow, here is a magical place that offers packed lunches to walkers!

Then you will head towards Chasseradès, where you will feel the presence of Robert Louis Stevenson, as he conversed with the engineers who designed the viaduct, even though the line was not opened until about twenty years later.  Not far from there is a state forest, and take the opportunity to buy farm products on site.    

Between Chasseradès and Bleymard, you will climb the Goulet mountain, a massif located to the north of the Cévennes, which peaks at around 1500 m while Mont Lozère marks its southern limit. Then you will descend to Bleymard.

From Bleymard to Pont de Montvert, the 6-hour walk will fly by as you enjoy a breathtaking view of the Cévennes from Mont Lozère. Incidentally, the term Lozère comes from "loze" or "lauze," the stone used for roofing in mountainous regions.  

From Pont Montvert towards Florac. Here the Stevenson Trail merges with that of the Tour du Mont Lozère and above all, you will walk in the Land of the Camisards. After being under Germanic domination—the Visigoths, this land became sensitive to the Calvinist faith before becoming a Cathar territory!   

Florac, the headquarters of the Cévennes Park, is nestled between the Cévennes schist, the granite of Mont Lozère, and the limestone of the Causses. A small town of character, it has preserved its fortifications! Now let's head to the village of Cassagnes.

From Bleymard to Pont de Montvert, you won't notice the 6 hours of walking as you will enjoy a breathtaking view of the Cévennes from Mont Lozère.

Between Cassagnes and Saint-Etienne-Vallee-Francaise. Where does this curious name come from? Some claim that it was once a free zone, however, historians tend to lean towards a Frankish advance into Visigothic territory.   

Walking along the Gardon from Saint-Etienne-Vallée-Française, you will reach the village of Saint Jean-du-Gard, which marks your final stop on the Stevenson Trail. You will have covered the 220 km that the writer-traveler made in the company of his donkey.

Robert Louis Stevenson then took a boat to the United States. He there joined Fanny Osbourne who divorced her first husband, they married in due form and traveled the world together. They ended their days in Samoa!