Finistère: Exotic Islands and Extraordinary Botanical Gardens

Throughout history, people from Finistère have been wanderers. Cod fishermen, resistance fighters of Île de Sein, modern sailors, they have braved the oceans. Let's explore an island with exotic vegetation, small mountains, moorlands populated by korrigans, sea arms, a surprise awaits you...

The people of Roscoff have been exporting their red onions to England since the 19th century. Initially, they would deliver them to the island by bicycle! What particularly strikes the traveler in this tip of North Finistère is its unsinkable jetty, over 500 meters long. Not only does it offer a stunning panorama of the bay with its deep blue waters, but it also reveals emerging rocks that form numerous wild islets. From this quay, you have your back to the old town and its alleys which are delightful to wander through.

Apart from its chapels, you will admire its Renaissance-style shipowners' houses with their dormer windows. You will marvel at the blue agapanthus that carpet the gardens. This variety, originating from the Cape of Good Hope, thrives only in oceanic climates. If you are a fan of good gastronomy, ask for a complete one made from wheat flour as this is how savory crepes were traditionally prepared!

The people of Roscoff have been exporting their red onions to England since the 19th century. Initially, they delivered them to the island by bicycle!

Here we are on board the shuttle heading to Batz. Past the lighthouse, we sail, hair in the wind. After docking, we follow the path on the right that skirts the bay towards the George Delaselle garden. Soon we are overtaken by cyclists; few vehicles are allowed on site. Suddenly, we come across vertical plants that resemble small cypresses, whose ends have purple flowers.

We will learn later what mystery surrounds these naturalized essences on the Isle of Batz. Then we are approached by a little girl chasing a treasure in the ruins of a basilica. Personally, I adore treading through open-air Roman worship sites where nature has reclaimed its rights! Not far from there stands a mound topped with giant trees, could it be a feudal motte? Not at all, it's the botanical garden we were aiming for. How peculiar, exotic vegetation on a Breton island! This is because the place benefits both from the warmth of the Gulf Stream and the huge cypresses that form a barrier against the wind.

Within this exotic garden, our minds wander between a South African garden, a palm grove, a Japanese pond, a cacti area... By the way, the famous plants we came across are called Echiums or viper's bugloss and originate from the Canary Islands.

I bring you some species from this extraordinary herbarium: the Cordyline woven by the Maori, kangaroo apples native to Tasmania, pale pink Madeira geraniums, Algerian irises... How did the idea germinate at the turn of the 20th century in the mind of a Parisian insurer to imagine such a planted paradise? During a visit to Batz, he observes unknown botanical species. Upon inquiring, he realizes that navigators had brought them back from their voyages in the southern seas. Since the island is beaten by the winds, he then decides to create artificial dunes to shelter the hill more. In doing so, he uncovers a small necropolis which he chooses to preserve!

A garden left to itself becomes overrun by lush vegetation. It is thanks to the efforts of volunteers that it regains its domesticated appearance. It will ultimately pass into the hands of the Coastal Conservatory.

NB: To regain strength, take a break at café Gortozen on your way back and try a handmade pistachio or chestnut ice cream.

Now, I offer you an adventure in Pays Pagan, also known as pagan. This coastal region stretches from East to West from Goulven to Guisseny. Join me during a session of .... spiritism! We are going to visit Tugdual, a septuagenarian who apparently has a gift: that of locating people. Soon his pendulum begins to oscillate and the druid places his finger on a point in the Mediterranean off the coast of Sardinia. It is the position of the catamaran on which my children are sailing! Yet I have been careful not to mention my family, I am astonished!

Indeed, we are on pagan land, and the persistence of pardons, types of religious ceremonies of pagan inspiration, proves it! We are now heading to Keremma, where rows of white sand dunes stretch as far as the eye can see. How can we explain the presence of a hundred manors concentrated in this hamlet? They were part of a phalanstere or communal village founded by polytechnic students at the turn of the 20th century. The most surprising thing is that the 700 descendants, still owners of the place, gather there every August 15th!

On the coastline, at the foot of the grassy dunes, take a photo break in front of the polished pebbles of Meneham, a natural curiosity...
Further West, here is the Aber Wrac'h, the longest and most northerly of the rias. Climb to the foot of its semaphore and be dazzled by the grazing sun that covers its meanders. At the helm, 2 lookouts were monitoring the coast and at dusk, the semaphore was relieved by the Phare de la Vierge. Although it is no longer active, it still offers a breathtaking view of the entrance to the aber.

Then push on to the port of Lilia (municipality of Plouguerneau) for its Lighthouse of the Virgin, the tallest in Europe. It has been watching over the coast strewn with reefs since 1902. Accessible at low tide, you will have to climb nearly 400 steps to reach its lantern! However, you will be rewarded as there are 12,500 opalines lining the interior!

The Aber Benoit is best observed from the bridge that spans it at the foot of the village of Triglonou. As the spectacle varies with the tides; at low tide the sand is exposed and ochres dominate. At high tide, the blue of the sky is reflected in the shimmering water. Moreover, the GR 34, otherwise known as the most popular customs officers' path and the most frequented, runs along the abers.

NB: let me recommend a guest house, La Petite Valise in Ploudalmézeau. Dating back to the 17th century, it has been carefully restored.

Whether you are more versed in science or lean towards contemporary art, Brest has plenty to keep you busy on rainy days. Océanopolis immerses you in the world of oceans if only through its crab-shaped architecture. The giant aquarium is sure to impress you with its polar sea anemones, blue-spotted stingrays, Napoleon fish, or European otters. Under no circumstances should you miss the Capucins workshops in Brest. This building is a wonderful example of rehabilitation.

Once an arsenal, it was returned to the city in 2009 and converted into an exhibition center, so check it out! To get there, take the urban cable car from the Marina. When I visited, a monumental sculpture by Henry Moore on loan from the Leclerc Foundation was on display, perfectly fitting the venue. At its feet you can stroll along Saint Malo street and its art craftsmen. It is the only one that escaped the bombing of Brest during World War II.

Let us now head to the Monts d'Arrée in the inland areas. Mont Saint-Michel offers a breathtaking view of the Armorique Regional Natural Park. Besides peaks approaching 400 m, the terrain here consists of marshes, forests, and ponds. It is not surprising then that numerous beliefs and legends have developed.

Our first stop takes us to Sizun, also located in the land of the parish enclosures, these architectural complexes composed of a church, an ossuary... all surrounded by an enclosure. It so happens that in the 16th and 17th centuries, Brittany supplied the linen and hemp needed for the making of the sails of merchant ships. Imagine that at that time, Breton was a commercial language just like English! Moreover, the small town of Saint-Cadou has slate quarries.

Mont Saint Michel offers a breathtaking view of the Armorique Regional Natural Park.

However, I must admit I prefer the site of La Martyre, located just a short distance away, which is the starting point of the parish close circuit. From the top of its triumphal porch, fairs were overseen. Moreover, the Chapel features frescoes, baptismal fonts, and monochrome statues, not to mention the banners brandished during the pardons.

NB: to complete your immersion in Celtic culture, visit the Valley of the Saints, a crazy project of monumental sculptures reminiscent of Easter Island.