Lake Geneva, the marvel of the Alps between France and Switzerland

Lake Geneva, we thought we knew it, that was before we went there…  

Whether you are enamored with nature or old stones, this destination is for you. I could have told you about Lake Bourget where the film "Mon petit doigt m’a dit" was shot based on the novel by Agatha Christie. I could very well have recounted Annecy, its surprisingly good fresh waters, and its limestone pavements. Yet, I had kept a dazzling memory of Lake Geneva and, therefore, I propose an escape to this lake nestled between the French and Swiss Alps. Upon close inspection, it is quite the curiosity since its depth reaches about 350 m in some places. To give you an idea, that's the height of the Eiffel Tower! You will then understand that it corresponds to the largest freshwater reserve in Europe. Moreover, regattas such as the "5 days of Lake Geneva" are held there.

Whether you are in love with nature or old stones, this destination is for you.

We will start our tour in Yvoire. Forget the overly popular medieval town to give yourself a quiet moment in the Garden of the 5 Senses. This contemporary park is directly inspired by the convents of the Middle Ages in that it is surrounded by stone walls. Additionally, it includes other traditional elements from that era such as the medicinal herb garden, the orchard in a cemetery, or even the plant maze. I guarantee you a transportation of the senses. Thus, the Taste garden contains edible flora! In the garden of Smell, you will perceive the scents of licorice! You can freely touch the plants in the garden of Touch! Finally, you will gaze upon the nigella flowers in the garden of Sight!

During your land tour of the lake, you will stop at Thonon-les-Bains. If you are looking for a view of the lake and the mountains, I suggest the belvederes near the funicular. Additionally, you will notice the Château de Ripaille. Dating back to the 15th century and then remodelled around 1900, the Château de Ripaille was successively the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, the Bernois, and the Vaudois. The castle, flanked by turrets, stands proudly, and it was Voltaire who coined the expression "faire ripaille" (feasting), as "people evidently loved to feast there". Moreover, the tradition has not completely vanished since you can taste wine there and take home a few good bottles! From Thonon, you could very well take a lake shuttle for an excursion on the Swiss side.

 Another spa town besides Evian whose benefits were discovered in 1790 by the Marquis de Lessert. The town features Belle Epoque buildings such as its spa facilities, renovated in 2016. Stop by the Palais des Lumières, converted into a cultural center, the casino, or the Villa Lumière—indeed the Lumière brothers, which houses the City Hall. To finish, go refill your bottle at the last public source Cachat—the others are owned by the giant Nestlé* and along the way admire the basin and mosaic of an artist from Thonon. In winter, you'll be all set for a photo at the Fabulous Village of the Flottins where driftwood sculptures were created… 

In the commune of Veytaux, visit Chillon Castle which overlooks the lake. Located on a rocky islet that it matches the oval shape, it is connected to the land by a bridge, hence it's called a "water castle". Its north facade, which faces the Via Francigena, reminds of the medieval fortress while the south side is Gothic style. At the heart of the building, you will find the keep and its treasure room. The Château de Ripaille fascinated many artists. Thus Courbet depicted it and Rousseau set the scenes of the New Heloise there. Lord Byron was inspired in 1816 by the story of one of its illustrious prisoners, Bonivard, for his novel "The Prisoner of Chillon". Moreover, the Byron Café should soon be opened.

On the Swiss side, I introduce you to the Rochers-de-Naye which peak at 2042m. Either you will reach them after a walk of about 2h30 following a recommended route. I invite you to take this hike because in addition to the excellent panoramas, you will follow the ballet of paragliders! Or else you will ascend to the summit from Montreux by a cogwheel train. Its route is curved, which is unusual, and it has two-way traffic! Once there, you might not escape the marmot park... A better attraction than the alpine garden with its 800 species of mountain plants: Rambertia. Have you always wanted to gaze at edelweiss or gentians? Here’s your chance!

Montreux, an emblematic figure of the Swiss Riviera, hosts the Montreux Jazz Festival in summer. It was on such an occasion that Freddie Mercury visited the place. He fell under the spell of the small Swiss town. He thus bought a house by the lake to escape his overwhelming fame. Regarding this, the song "Made in Heaven" directly refers to it. If you are part of the Queens fan club, you will make a stop in front of the bronze statue representing the singer, facing the lake. Finally, from Montreux, fabulous walks such as the Chauderon trail along the bay offer breathtaking panoramas, don't miss out!

Vevey will remain memorable for the figure of Charlie Chaplin. Within the Manoir Ban where he lived the last 25 years of his life, you will encounter the objects of his daily life! A museum was installed, the Chaplin’s World, which traces the history of silent film. The icing on the cake is the castle's park, which spans 4 hectares and offers a breathtaking view of the lake. For aficionados, note that in one of the town's cemeteries, you will find the artist’s grave and right beside it, that of his wife Oona. Nevertheless, Vevey became known for its giant fork sculpture made by the artist Zaugg. Planted in the waters of the lake in the style of Miyajima's torii! For your information, it measures 14 m high and was made using 450 kg of stainless steel.

Among all these legendary places, my preference nevertheless goes to Lavaux and its terraced vineyards overlooking the lake. As the sun sets, the alignment of the vines appears even more majestic. Therefore, it is not surprising that the site has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage since 2007. It was Cistercian monks who in the 11th century built the small walls that retain the vines. Here, Chasselas and Pinot Noir are produced. What makes the quality of this wine? On one hand, these walls which retain their heat at night, on the other hand, the increased sunshine due to reflection, and finally significant rainfall. The best view can be observed from the road located on the cornice!

Where to buy Swiss chocolate if not in Lausanne at Maison Blondel, and I recommend the one with Yuzu or the other one with sesame at Umeboshi…

Among all these legendary places, my preference nevertheless goes to Lavaux and its terraced vineyards overlooking the lake.

1 : Henri Nestlé, a Swiss pharmacist and chemist who developed the first milk-based infant formula in the mid-1860s to combat infant mortality.

2 : The Via Francigena corresponds to a route taken by pilgrims in the Middle Ages from Great Britain to Rome.