Liguria, divine getaway between Piedmont and Tuscany

Straddling Piedmont and Tuscany, bordering the Mediterranean is a hidden natural jewel, Liguria with its regional capital Genoa. Sailors are well aware of these Genoese towers that mark the entrances to the ports. They reflect the power of Genoese maritime trade and can be found as far as the Black Sea! 

Even the Crusaders embarked from Genoa in the 12th century towards the Middle East to christianize it. This shows how deep the tradition of traveling is within this port city.

Christopher Columbus, the discoverer of America, was he not from Genoa? In Liguria, you will also discover the Cinque Terre, villages suspended between earth and sky of perfect beauty. This time, it is the tower-houses leaning against the hills that will surprise you; they point towards the sky like a multicolored pop-up. The 5 Lands are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and the best way to visit them remains hiking, with the distance between the two farthest villages not exceeding 18 KM! 

We naturally start our visit at the old port of Genoa. I invite you to spend some time there, looking at its colorful houses to get a feel for the city's pulse. The Porta Siberia, which was part of the city wall, has been redesigned by Renzo Piano as part of the restoration of the ancient port. Born in Genoa, the Italian architect and urban planner wanted to reconnect with the city's personality dominated by the port. He has revitalized this area by designing a unique space under his futuristic viaduct. You will be amazed by the size of Piazza Caricamento, which serves as a loading and unloading station for the port, covering some 9000 M2. Built in the 19th century, it is directly connected to the railway line. Just imagine, in the past, the sea used to lap at the feet of the arcades! 

The square is flanked by the Palace of Saint George, which houses the headquarters of the port system authority. The building is partly medieval civil architecture and Renaissance; can you tell the difference? Legend has it that its prison hosted a notable guest in the 13th century in the person of Marco Polo! Then climb up to 40 meters above the ground in the Bigo panoramic elevator, and you will overlook the port district with its maze of narrow streets. Our dear little ones will board the Neptune, a replica of a galleon used in Polanski's film Pirates. It is functional and can sail at 5 knots under sail. 

As for shopping aficionados, they are likely to find their happiness on Corso Italia. Do not miss the Doge's Palace, make sure to get information because it hosts quality temporary exhibitions. You cannot miss the San Lorenzo cathedral as it shines with its white and gray stripes. It features Romanesque and Gothic elements, however, you will be surprised to discover a British bomb from World War II inside. Rest assured, it is an exact replica! 

On Via Garibaldi, keep your eyes peeled because here expresses the power of the Genoese aristocracy of the 16th century. The facades are sumptuous and a century later, the painter Rubens, who stayed in the city several times, was amazed and chose to sketch them. Visit the Rossi Palace system, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2006. It is full of stuccos, marbles, mirrors, trompe l'oeil... Finally, get high on the Zecca Righi funicular which takes you up to the forts and mingle with the locals. NB: animal lovers will appreciate the aquarium built for the 500th anniversary of the discovery of the New World. It houses open-air basins where you can observe cetaceans or even pet rays!

Let's embark on the assault of the 5 villages that make up the Cinque Terre. Each of them has its own charm, which makes the journey all the more exotic. Starting from the north, let's stop at Monterosso, the seaside resort. Between vineyards and olive groves, rugged hills rise up. In fact, it's perched on one of them - San Cristoforo at the foot of the Aurora Tower that you will enjoy the best view of the city. The hill delineates the new town from the old one. Within the latter, you meander through the medieval alleys lined with tower houses. Look up and you will see the ruins of the castle that overlooks the old town. Along the way, stop and taste a gelato, the artisanal Italian ice creams are unparalleled.

Then you will reach Vernazza, which will delight you. Like its inhabitants, you stroll along the seawall. Within the charming harbor, you notice the fishermen's boats with their bright colors. As a symbol of the region, they are sometimes stored in the village squares. Then take Via Roma, which climbs towards the heights of the village. It is during this climb that you will discover lively squares and perhaps you will enjoy a pesto alla genovese. Moreover, I highly recommend the Belforte Tower, on whose roof you can climb! NB: For the architecture enthusiasts, do not miss under any circumstances the churches of Saint Mary of Antioch and San Francesco, not to mention the sanctuary of Our Lady of Reggio. 

The trail connecting Vernazza to Corniglia is among the most beautiful routes as it overlooks the Ligurian Sea. Soon, Corniglia will appear on its rocky spur. Be careful; the village, having no access to the sea, will require some effort. Indeed, you will need to climb a steep path of over 300 steps (lardarina). From the Santa Maria viewpoint, you admire the surrounding vineyards and on a clear day, who knows, you might see the Corsican coasts! Corniglia is unlike the other villages. From Via Fieschi, the main street, flower-lined streets branch out in a star pattern. Linger on the church square of San Pietro or on the terraces of Piazza Largo. You will not resist the scents of Ligurian cuisine: trofie pasta, anchovies, focaccia, or Sciacchetra liqueur! Treat yourself at the La Gata Flora ice cream shop.

Between Corniglia and Manarola you walk along the via Volastra within the National Park. The path indeed winds through olive groves and vineyards and ends with stone terraces. Be careful, some parts of the path can be challenging and those who do not wish to risk it can very well take a bus or a train. Manarola might be the oldest village of the Cinque Terre, who knows? It certainly is picturesque with its Genoese houses and breakwaters. Its trails have made Manarola famous, especially the dell'Amore trail. Unfortunately, it is currently impassable but it should reopen in July 2024. Conceived in the 1930s, it follows the route of the railway line carved into the rock. Finally, you find a charming port sheltered in a gorge, a place cut off from the world.  

Founded by Greek refugees, the village seems clung to the clouds. It was the railway line that connected it to the other villages and the rest of Italy in the 19th century. The painter Telemaco fell in love with Riomaggiore. He was part of the Macchiaioli, an Italian pictorial movement that launched modern painting in Italy. You will be captivated by its quadrangular-plan castle which offers a breathtaking panorama over the region. If sacred art fascinates you, also visit the Oratory of San Rocco or the church of San Giovanni Battista, a Gothic basilica. Those who prefer hiking will find their bliss at the foot of the sanctuary that embraces a panoramic view of Liguria. To conclude, beach aficionados and excellent swimmers will head to Fossola beach… 

Bella passeggiata…