Discover Cap Corse and its wild nature between sea and land.

Like the islanders, who head north of the island to spend their vacation away from the summer hustle, let's head for Cap Corse. Let's explore this end of the land by going up the East side from Bastia. Near the northern tip, we will turn towards the western part of the island which is less maritime and reach Saint Florent. During our tour, we will come across holm oaks, Genoese towers, black pebble beaches, or slate roofs...

Let's go explore this end of the land by going up the East facade from Bastia.

If I tend to plan my trip, I always leave room for improvisation. Since I had disembarked from my ferry at Bastia, I chose to get lost there. The Genoese city with its Old Port, its citadel with the orange facade, its Romieu garden was going to surprise me …  As I wandered, I noticed a Belle Epoque shop: Maison Mattei, where I was offered a taste of the Cap Corse aperitif. I could clearly detect a scent of oranges and muscat, yet other flavors stood out: quinine and the plants of the maquis! I was then directed to a gourmet shop in Bastia: A Biscuterria where I enjoyed canestrelli, these Italian star-shaped shortbread cookies that are also found in Liguria…   

As soon as we set our wheels on the twists and turns of the D80, a road that skirts Cap Corse, an area 40 km long and only 15 km wide, we have to stop. There before our astonished eyes lies a stretch of land into the sea. At the end of this jetty, one can see a Genoese tower in ruins, here is Erbalunga! The hamlet, once dubbed the “nest of painters”, now attracts local photographers as it is so enchanting. On-site try to rent a kayak or a paddleboard to paddle in the Cap Corse Marine Park. You will then experience an unforgettable sensory experience amidst the elements. The sea stroll has whetted your appetite, make a stop at the Pirates restaurant and taste a bruccio: a zucchini gratin, a real killer!

Let's continue our journey north and drive for a little hour. Here comes Pietracorbera, whose fine sandy beach will fascinate you. You will also admire the villas of the Americans, recognizable by their four-sided roofs. These were built by Corsican emigrants who had made their fortune in South America upon their return. Next to them, you will observe a more traditional habitat: houses with slate roofs. This slate is a natural schist that takes on beautiful shades ranging from lavender blue to terracotta. Moreover, it is from here that the whitewater trail starts. These footpaths have been arranged to make hiking easy: they have little elevation and do not exceed 3 km. Here you will walk in the shade and observe the elements that make up Genoese architecture: bridges, fountains...

In Macinaggio, board the motorboat for an exotic 2-hour sea trip. You will pass by the Finocchiarola archipelago, three small islands that form a nature reserve where the largest colony of Audouin's gulls nests. Before heading to Barcaggio, you will have a pleasant swimming stop! As for hikers, they will hit the road at dawn. Indeed, count on a 3-hour walk one way to complete the hike on foot! Have you overestimated your strength? Why not cut back on the return by Sainte Marie chapel, which saves an hour, or simply return by boat ... For my part, I highly recommend Tamarone beach, do not hesitate and a place loved by the locals: U Paradisu !

20 minutes from Macinaggio, heading towards the West coast, the Mattei mill is a sight to see. Indeed, it is the last standing windmill, and the contrast with the wind turbines in the background is striking. You have to climb up to it to take in the view that I consider the most breathtaking in Cap Corse! On a clear day, which I have no doubt about in summer, you will have the chance to make out the Agriates desert. Has your curiosity been piqued? Head to the section on Saint Florent further on! If you look closely, you will also see the islet of Capense and the city of …

Centuri! This is one of the most beautiful spots in Cap Corse. Centuri is known for its lobster fishing. On this note, treat yourself to a lobster pasta dish, you won't regret it! While it's great to stroll around this port town with its pastel colors, it also has a tumultuous past! It was from Centuri that Paoli made the military port of independent Corsica in the 18th century. Moreover, in 2014, a clan war took place here that made headlines, but shush! Instead, go enjoy your ice cream at the geleteria by the water!

Further south you will reach Nonza, a little gem that is this fortified city and its Paoline tower. Legend has it that a captain held the place against 1200 Frenchmen thanks to an ingenious defense system. Nonetheless, Nonza has a beach of black pebbles with a particularity… Apparently, people come here to place lighter pebbles in order to create designs and … messages that can be observed from the top of the road! Consequently, I leave you to write your own unless you prefer to decipher those of others! To have a drink at dusk, head to La Sassa, a rather trendy bar-lounge.

Before joining Saint Florent, let's make a stop at Patrimonio. I invite you to a wine tasting with the Arena family, who have been winemakers from father to son for 5 centuries! A mark of quality, Patrimonio wine was the first AOC of the island as early as 1968. Do you appreciate Muscat? You will find that the Isle of Beauty indeed has expertise in the production of Muscat. How can we explain the delicacy and freshness of the Arena family's wines? When interviewed on this subject, the Arena brothers provided a simple answer: the grape variety, not the blend. As a result, in the absence of mutation, the wine does not exceed 13% alcohol.

Further south you will reach Nonza, a little gem that this fortified town and its Paoline tower are.

We conclude our loop at Saint Florent and its splendid gulf, just a short distance from Patrimonio. Sometimes called the Saint Tropez of Cap Corse, the town attracts an upscale clientele, which won't stop you from playing pétanque in its squares! Then stroll along its quays and head for the citadel. From Saint Florent, the shuttle boat departs for the Agriates. On this 16,000-hectare piece of land, sheep and shepherds live in "paillers," a type of sheepfold. Imagine this: on one of its beaches, Saleccia, with white sand and crystal-clear waters, cameras were set up in 1961 for what became the cult film: The Longest Day!