Wine Tourism in La Rioja

You've heard about the Ebro Delta and its rice fields, or Navarre for its vegetables, the culinary tradition of Galicia? I invite you on a journey of the senses in La Rioja, an autonomous region in the north of Spain intimately connected to the Camino de Santiago.

If I tell you that there is a village in La Rioja with 43 bodegas, would you believe me? Yet it is true and it's called Villabuena de Alava. Already you wonder why? Since it is simply nestled between the Cantabrian Mountains and the Tolono Mounts and it benefits from a microclimate! Its origins trace back to the Romans and its 300 souls live off the vine. Here’s an ideal starting point to explore this region that has kept its soul while looking towards the future.
 

What strikes the visitor is this architecture made of glass cubes on which the surrounding mountains are reflected. Viura, like a deconstructed pop-up, contrasts with the Basque architecture, yet it fits in perfectly. This is due to several reasons: it already follows the shape of the rock to which it is backed. Moreover, it appears behind the design desk of the reception and it is impressive. Additionally, the builders favored noble materials such as concrete or wood, which recalls the wooden oak barrels. These barrels are stored in tunnels that the population used to flee invasions! On the rooftop terrace of the boutique hotel, enjoy the falling night while sipping a glass of Rioja and contemplating the crests of the Cantabrian mountains. 

Obviously, the hotel offers all the services of a luxurious establishment: spa, music lounge, Tesla chargers, dining room... It aims to be eco-friendly: using biomass, rationed water consumption, waste recycling. At breakfast, you will understand that the cuisine is prepared by a chef. The restaurant, whose ceiling is strewn with barrels, welcomes connoisseurs. When I stayed there, it was frequented by wine merchants doing their shopping, a group of American girlfriends on the wine route. If you decide to dine there, I can recommend some dishes like the blood sausage ravioli with its apple compote, the Galician tournedos, or even the fricassee of wild mushrooms.  

When Ariane de Rothschild visits the Palais de Samaniego in 2016, she falls in love with the intimate setting and decides to convert it into a boutique hotel. Moreover, walk through the establishment and admire the baroness's collection of art pieces. These include contemporary art, vases, and a table created by designer Mathisse Dalstein. For my part, I invite you to its gourmet restaurant, Tierra y Vino. The chef, Bruno Coelho, is in charge of the kitchen, and the menu, which follows the seasons, draws inspiration from the cuisine and is authentically borrowing from Iberian and Basque traditions, but he adds personal touches. 

To whet your appetite you could dine on artichokes—the Spaniards cook them wonderfully well, a truffled egg, broad beans, and an almond pilpil, a beetroot and strawberry ingot or a citrus tartlet. The restaurant, which adheres to the zero-kilometer principle concerning the provenance of its products, relies on its wine cellar to complement its dishes. Its oenologist Miran Ormazabal and his team offer you a tailor-made olfactory and gustatory journey. The service is meticulous, and tranquility is maintained. For those with savings, the palace has been meticulously restored. The wood has also been preserved, although it is presented in a contemporary style. To remind us that we are in a wine-growing region, the rooms have been named after grape varieties. Finally, the parador boasts an outdoor pool and respects the environment. 

Have you seen the fish on the waterfront in Barcelona or the corrugated sheets of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao? Then you are familiar with the architecture of Frank Gehry? 

If you like this modernity, then you will be captivated by the Marqués de Riscal winery. Following in its footsteps, wineries with new architecture have emerged. This is the case with the Ysios winery whose stepped gable stands at the end of a straight path. It is designed by architect Santiago Calatrava and unmistakably resembles a door opening to another world, the one where the angels' share evaporates… The vine roots here reach 100 years old, the quality of the soil is indisputable, the wine heritage is omnipresent. 

Nevertheless, the winery looks to the future and the winemaker Clara Canals brings with her a modern vision. A biologist and biochemist by training, she worked alongside Elena Adell at Campo Viejo. Visiting Ysios means touring the vineyards in an electric car, seeing the barrel room, and concluding the visit with a tasting. A different vibe from the family-owned Vina real winery, shaped like a vat and with imposing dimensions. It was conceived by the Bordeaux architect Philippe Mazieres. You have never seen so many barrels in your life! An excellent red escapes from Vina Real whose slopes face south and are elevated. The vineyard, attached to tradition even though it sports a modern design, has indeed celebrated its 125 years of existence.

You will only need a panoramic photo as the view is so clear over the vineyards for miles around. The vines are best admired in autumn as the temperatures are pleasant during this time of the year. According to archaeologists, Laguardia, which rises to over 600m, was already inhabited in the Neolithic era. It is believed to have been colonized by the Celts.

In the Middle Ages, the fortified city served as a lookout post because it defended Navarre. It still follows the medieval layout with its narrow streets. Wineries flourished there as tunnels were dug into the foundations of the houses. Since 1164, it has had the status of a free town, meaning its subjects were free and could trade freely. As you wander through it you will stop in front of a magnificent building, the Casa de la Primacia, which forms the oldest civil building. Do not hesitate to cross the threshold since the place has been arranged for visitors.

With its mountain range backdrop, its well-preserved churches, Laguardia will delight you. And then let yourself be tempted by its pintxos, delicious appetizers. You taste them while sipping a zurito, a small local beer. Speaking of which, do you know what the bar-hopping for tapas is called? The Txikiteo*!

NB: the “x” is pronounced like a “ch”

Author: Gretel Tamalet

Discover all the wine tourism and gastronomy trip ideas to customize with a travel planner who specializes in the region.