Bicycle Tourism: On the Roads of Tuscany

Let us be intoxicated by the landscapes of Tuscany, the art and the gentle way of life that flourish there...

Our tour will start in the city of Pietrasanta, we will cross the Tuscan towns that the pilgrims used to travel through, but where emperors and popes also stayed. Along the way, we will stop in villages with a bucolic atmosphere such as Acquapendente to end in Viterbo in Etruscan land.

Pietrasanta is sometimes nicknamed the Mecca of sculpture since geniuses such as Michelangelo resided there. More recently, artists like Henry Moore, Botero, or César chose to set up their workshop there. Pietrasanta receives its marble from Carrara and locally, stone or bronze has been worked since the time of Lorenzo the Magnificent. In the last century, thanks to decorative sculpture, the city experienced a revival. Grouped there were molders, stucco workers, or chiselers, not to mention craftsmen working with wax, ceramics, or plaster. Be a little mouse and sneak into the backyards to see the sculptors engrossed in their work … 

Pietrasanta is sometimes nicknamed the Mecca of sculpture since geniuses such as Michelangelo resided there.

Now head towards Camaiore with the Apuan Alps as a backdrop for a gourmet break. Personally,  I had a succulent pepper tart at a Tuscan inn  by a river which I recommend : the osteria Candalla. However, Camaiore has another attraction, and not the least ; the Pontile Bellavista Vittoria, otherwise known as a contemporary boardwalk offering a 360° view. Therefore, preferably go there at twilight for an unforgettable sunset. The variegated skies, the low sun, the brilliance of the lake, the composer Puccini had a house there.

Here emerges from the hills Lucca with its San Martino church, partly Romanesque and partly Gothic. You will not fail to notice its portico with three arches! It is known that at this spot in the past, pilgrims on the Via Francigena used to exchange money. What accounts for the magnificence of its facade? It is because they used 3 different marbles to create this kaleidoscope: pink, green, and white! Originally, this feat was the result of an architects’ competition where all were retained! End your visit by the amphitheater and the walls!

Our next stop will take us to Altopascio to visit its combined inn-hospital. It was the Order of the Knights of Tau who provided both protection and assistance to pilgrims., From the 11th century they flocked from the marshes to the West and East. Within this hospital complex, you will discover the San Jacopo church whose carillon guided travelers and which underwent several expansions over time. Walls surround these buildings which later passed into the hands of the Medici, Dukes of Tuscany.  

San Miniato may sound familiar to you because it hosts the international white truffle fair! Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury, who initiated the pilgrimage by traveling to Rome, made a stop here during his return journey. The Castle was built under Otto I, but Frederick Barbarossa added fortifications and a tower in the 12th century, which has become a symbol of the city. The view of the surrounding countryside is spectacular. However, do not miss the cathedral whose facade is adorned with mosaics. Have fun observing: they are arranged according to the constellations of Ursa Minor and Ursa Major!

San Gimignano and its urban complex inscribed  in the UNESCO World Heritage will delight you. It encompasses 15 tower houses within a double wall. Target the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta for its Last Judgment fresco by Bartolo (14th century) as well as the Storie del Nuovo Testamento by Lippo (15th century). Yet, for some, the most spectacular aspect remains the panorama from the top of the Torre Grossa. You then overlook the valleys dotted with cypresses, all bathed in a soft light. Did the artists of the Grand Tour not emphasize how man had shaped the landscape of Tuscany in a harmonious manner...

Monterregioni harbors a gem: a tiny museum of the Templars which is said to have inspired the game Assassin's Creed… Moreover, the fortified village located not far from Siena is considered one of the most beautiful in Tuscany. Admittedly, it is very crowded and you will encounter more tourists than residents. This is why I recommend you walk its 2 main streets early in the morning and have fun spotting its towers. Additionally, the Romanesque church is worth a visit—if you're not tired of sacred art! Why not then linger in the lovely square and drink a real espresso?

Do you know the Sienna earth, that ochre pigment leaning towards brown used in painting? Perhaps this will help you visualize the shades taken by this city that became known as an artistic center. However, Sienna locally gained its fame from horse races that it continues to organize. These races take place in its Piazza del Campo, transformed into a racecourse, and pit "contrade" or neighborhood teams against each other. Additionally, you can admire the Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia… to enjoy a breathtaking view over the rooftops and surrounding countryside.

San Quirico d’Orcia remains lesser-known yet it is in this charming walled town with monumental gates that you will perceive the most authenticity. The atmosphere here remains familial between trattoria with checkered tablecloths where you will savor crostini or bruschetta, elderly couples doing their shopping or pasta being laid out to dry. Regarding this, the authorities aware of its unique character have had the town listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site to protect it, but this may well make it more widely known...

I suggest you spend the night in Radicofani, perched at 700 m altitude for the coolness of the place. Moreover, the medieval village is dotted with fountains! Above you looms the impressive fortress at the foot of which you could have a picnic. The spectacular site gives a glimpse of the upcoming most challenging stretch of your bike route… and yet the most thrilling as you enter Latium, the region of Rome. I suggest you make a stop at Ponte Gregoriano before the final climb! 

I suggest you spend the night in Radicofani, perched at 700 meters above sea level for the coolness of the place.

Here you are! Around the corner, amidst lush vegetation hiding caves, you find Acquapendente. A former Etruscan town, it takes pride in its medieval castle, one of the most accomplished structures of that era in Italy. Locally, the Madonna of the Flowers is celebrated. Legend has it that a withered cherry tree came back to life, symbolizing the beginning of the revolt against the tyrant Frederick Barbarossa. On your way to Viterbo, your last stop, you will skirt the Bolsena crater lake surrounded by blooming villages and treat yourself to a well-deserved swim!