Upper Corsica: 10 dream spots to lay down your towel

"Up there, at the extreme tip, between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Mediterranean, it is no longer an impression, but a certainty, the tip of Corsica is a deserted island.

On the beaches, balls of dried seagrass; in the freshwater ponds, toads and frogs, tree frogs; in the sky, Audouin's gulls or grey herons. And the dolphins are never far from the Genoese towers." (Fabrice Nicolino "Wild Lands" June 1994).

I invite you to tour the Cap Corse from West to East along the coast …  

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You marvel at a vast white sand beach near Cap Corse.  

Not far from Macinaggio, easily accessible from the departmental road, it will captivate you. Both uncrowded and family-friendly, it has translucent waters that reflect the pristine sky. The place has not lost its soul and as in the past, you can rent a beach mat right there!

By following on foot the beach sign within the village, one naturally comes upon a little gem. A paved promenade overlooks the magnificent beach which pure water comes to brush against. The sea reflects a sky in shades of blue and the intense sun makes everything sparkle and shimmer astonishingly. If you have a tendency to bask on the rocks, this place is perfectly suited for it.

Then give yourself a well-deserved rest at this preserved site. 

Divine, this beach with crystal clear waters is discovered along the customs officers' trail that winds through the Capandula Natural Park. From the harbor, you will walk about 1 KM but your effort will be well compensated since it's a 500 m long sandy beach that unfolds before you. And then, the U Paradisu hut on the right is designed for hikers: grilled meats, fish…  

As you round the cape, you reach the western coast. One of the most beautiful villages, according to Corsicans and pizzuti (foreigners), is none other than Centuri. This small port town, with a population of 200, is said to have preserved its fishing tradition. Pleasure boats are reportedly not allowed to dock there! That's why wandering through its alleyways and colorful houses is quite delightful. 

I admit I have a soft spot for this particular site. The combination of black sand, white foam, and navy blue sea turns out to be sublime. The beach is majestic and surfers meet up at this spot. Indeed, do not venture into the waves unless you are an excellent swimmer or if the weather is rough, but still, photography enthusiasts enjoy themselves immensely. 

Why not stop by a charming seaside village. Saint Florent has much to offer between its cobblestone streets, its incredible views over the gulf and the Agriates desert. A Genoese city, it defended itself from attackers with its citadel. It was Pascal Paoli's army, assisted by Admiral Nelson, who managed to reconquer it.   

You could not imagine a more picturesque scene than this beach surrounded by scrubland, where cows graze. Although small, it is idyllic. Thanks to a coastal path, after a 45-minute walk, you will reach its big sister Saleccia, which enjoys a historical aura. However, if you prefer, you can very well take the inland road and it will take a bit longer… 

I haven't told you about the Agriates Desert yet. Its name derives from the Latin word Ager, which means agriculture, and as such, it is not actually a desert but rather a fertile area. On the 16,000 hectares that the Agriates Desert covers, wheat and olive trees were once cultivated. Sheep and ewes grazed there. It stretches over 35 KM of coastline, and care has been taken to preserve the local fauna and flora.  

To reach this perfectly wild, idyllic location, you will need to take a shuttle from the port of Saint Florent. The approximately 30-minute crossing is made either aboard inflatable boats or on a large ship. This beach was used as a backdrop for the film The Longest Day (1962), which recounts the Allied landing. It was also here that, in 1943, 13 tons of weapons and ammunition intended for the Corsican resistance were landed. This is an isolated beach, sheltered from the world, bordered by pines. The place is particularly suitable for swimming with its clear waters.    

Located just a short distance from the Île Rousse, this wild beach, which is only accessible on foot, has escaped urbanization. If it is well-known among the residents of central Corsica, it's because it's wonderful. On one hand, it's strewn with dunes of pristine white sand, and on the other, it's vast as it stretches for more than 800 meters. NB: be careful of the waves if you wish to swim there, they can be dangerous.

Before you rush to its beaches, wander through the city which has been Phoenician, ancient, and inspired by Florentine architecture in turn. You will be charmed by its Baroque houses. Sometimes called Napoleon beach and other times Marinella beach, the most beautiful beach of Île Rousse offers a view of the small resort. Nevertheless, I must admit I have a soft spot for Bodri beach, close to the tip of Ginebre, which has facilitated access. What a spectacle its turquoise waters are, I am sure you will be enchanted! 

The Pinède beach is often favored by visitors. It is nestled at the end of the Gulf of Calvi and as its name suggests, it is bordered by pine trees. Bathed in crystal-clear waters, it is a prime spot for water sports. Furthermore, it hosts the Calvi on the Rocks festival in July. Lastly, it is also here that the filming crew of The Big Blue set up their base.

NB: The Piana Creeks and the Ficajola beach. Once in Calvi, it would be a shame not to go further. An escapade is essential in this timeless setting, and the creeks are best observed at dusk from a boat.

Author: Gretel Tamalet
Photo Credits: Mathilde Cureau - Unsplash