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Puglia: 5 Must-Visit Places for a Memorable Italian Getaway!

Image Puglia: 5 Must-Visit Places for a Memorable Italian Getaway!

Those who visit Puglia might not expect to encounter so many civilizations, from the Greeks to the Normans, through to the Ottomans... These civilizations have left their mark so much so that it’s natural to come across an Aragonese fortress. What also charms the visitor is the passeggiato, or the art of strolling at dusk, for which Italian women dress elegantly. Lastly, food lovers choose this destination for the orecchiette, these local pastas cooked al dente. 

Matera, a troglodyte city listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Halfway between Bari and Taranto, the small town will take your breath away. The Gravina or the canyon has carved the limestone in the midst of hills 400 m high. It is in these cliffs and their cavities that the population settled from the Neolithic period. In turn, the Greeks and then the Romans found refuge in these natural caves, with Matera located on the via Appia.
Subsequently, Byzantine monks, Benedictines occupied the "sassi" which were partially abandoned under Spanish rule. If the Gasperi law (1952) ensured that their inhabitants were rehoused, 3000 of them continue to live in the troglodytes.

 

In the 1950s, an urban planning scheme rehabilitated these habitats by integrating them into the city. The hilly relief allows you to contemplate the city from different slopes. At the top of Sasso Barisano, in addition to the view, you will be amazed by the majestic facade of the San Pietro Barisano basilica. Due to the limestone soils, there are no groundwater tables, and cisterns were installed by the Romans to store water - a way to cool off in summer! Finally, lovers of good food will find bliss at the gourmet restaurant La Lupa nestled in a ...cave!

Castellana Caves and return to ancient times

Imagine searching for a passage as a speleologist and treading for the first time on the floor of a magical cave! That's exactly what happened to Anelli in 1938 when he unearthed caves that were 90 million years old. Once submerged, the water withdrew to form a canyon. The most surprising thing is their length of some 3 KM long! The tour is conducted with a guide, and you can choose between a 50-minute route or a 2-hour one. Having chosen the first option, I did not regret it as the spectacle was magnificent. You first enter a cavity worthy of Indiana Jones, 50 minutes high, where daylight enters through a shaft of light. I later learned that classical concerts are held there; the acoustics must be perfect! Then, you begin to traverse the bed of a dried-up river, and what a spectacle! The cave is illuminated, revealing stalactites, stalagmites, and columns. With such a decor, I understand how it is possible to believe in supernatural beings. All the rooms have names, and the most impressive is the white grotta bianca, made of alabaster, an unreal, magical, sublime spectacle...

Alberobello and its conical-roofed houses

While driving through the Puglia region, one notices a gray stone with light reflections. It is used in the walls that separate the parcels and shelter the crops from the wind. It is also found in the conical roofs of the dwellings and if you look closely, you realize that they have been assembled without mortar. All this has a historical explanation. In order not to leave anything to the Turkish invader, the keystone was removed and the construction would collapse! To see the most beautiful trullis - that's what these dwellings with conical roofs are called, one must inevitably go to Alberobello.  Within the Rione Monti district, climb along the two arteries that meander up the hill. On either side, you admire these small houses that remind one of the hobbit village. Here is a paradise for photography enthusiasts: whitewashed houses, quaint alleys, bougainvilleas... It goes without saying that you won't resist taking pictures. As the site is very popular and the terrain steep, it's best to get there early! Then treat yourself to a strong coffee with a glass of water in the plaza in the lower town among the locals. 

Polignano, a holiday resort of the Most Serene

This enchanting place, endowed with a sheltered cove with emerald waters, was frequented by celebrities. However, the port on the Adriatic coast also owes its fame to a famous figure. If I say Volare, do you reply Cantare or am I mistaken? Indeed, the author of this song, Domenico Modugno, was born in Polignano a Mare. Moreover, a tribute is paid to him there with a full-body statue. Once you pass through the arch, you head towards the Clock Palace, it's simply splendid!    

Personally, I was captivated by this city with a Greek flair where every detail is thought out. In the little squares, orange trees and cacti mix, the stairs are decorated with mosaic objects, and signs display quotes from hippie singers. There are plenty of churches in Italy, but they are often frequented, and the fervor of the faithful is palpable. Furthermore, Italians have always been excellent mosaic artists, and the Apulia region is no exception to the tradition. They offer jars for storing olive oil, crockery, and balloons symbols of fertility. I personally recommend enjoying the breathtaking sea views at sunset with a glass of a local grape variety: primitivo, negroamaro… accompanied by taralli, savory biscuits.


 

Lecce for Architecture Enthusiasts

Here is a museum city into which you enter through the Porta Napoli. Rarely will you see such a concentration of magnificent buildings in such a small area. From the Sant'Oronzo square, you have access to a very well-preserved buried amphitheater. The Duomo, with its double façade and flanked by a campanile, is a masterpiece of the Baroque style. The Santa Croce Cathedral is a pure marvel with its sumptuous rose window. Not far from there, you will notice a column topped with a bronze statue of Sant’ Oronzo - him again, you might say; he is the patron saint of the city! Strolling along Giuseppe Libertini, the main street, you also discover some beautiful artisan craft shops. Here you find all the Italian art of living: pressure coffee makers, household linens, papier-mâché objects, fine leather goods... In the evening, the monuments are illuminated and the bars come to life. For small appetites, try Puccia, these wonderful homemade sandwiches with crispy bread. They are garnished with deli meats, burrata, octopus...


 

For those who have more time...

Cisternino: a village with marble floors

Locorotondo: a cliff overlooking the vineyards

Otranto: a church and its superb mosaics

Monopoli: a port with blue boats


 

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Author: Gretel Tamalet
Photo Credits: Vincenzo De Simone - Unsplash

Explore Puglia: From the Magic of Caves to Quaint Trulli, via Lecce's Baroque Architecture