Journey to the Heart of Mythology in Greece
She bathed us in mythology and then taught us democracy. Traveling in Greece is going back to the origins of our civilization and it is always an enchantment.
The essentials:
● The Parthenon or the golden ratio
● The new Acropolis Museum
● The stadium of the first Olympic Games
● The Cyclades necessarily by sail
● Delphi, the navel of the world
● Epidaurus, the quintessential ancient theater
● The sanctuary of Olympia
● Sparta and the invaders
● the Meteora suspended in the sky
● the Ionian islands with Corfu
● Santorini and its caldera
● …
I remember arriving at Santorini by sail after a night's navigation. We are exhausted but we know that we are about to experience something extraordinary. It is still cool and a gentle sea breeze envelops us. We are dreading some of the afternoon hours due to the heat. Eagerly, we wait for dawn with binoculars in hand. Soon, gigantic, dizzying cliffs begin to take shape around us. Then, points of light start to illuminate the hillside. Gradually, light emerges and the pristine whiteness of the lime bursts forth. The cobalt blue of the domes is impeccable, matching the blue of the sky reflected in the ocean. A flight of steps separates us from the sea level to the crest. Climbing them early in the morning is a challenge but is quickly rewarded; a panoramic view of the Aegean Sea unfolds before us. We are perched in the sky as if we were mingling with the gods. On the terrace of a local bar, we sip a strong coffee and with our hands, draw the contours of the caldera. The view is magnificent, breathtaking, it etches itself into my memory.
A world beyond where monasteries hang suspended in the sky
If your son, like mine, falls asleep under a starry sky, he would tell you that a meteor is a luminous phenomenon similar to a shooting star. Specifically, it occurs when a solid body from space falls into the atmosphere... Nothing surprising then that the inhabitants of Thessaly, a region north of Athens, would use the term meteora to refer to these stone sentinels. Nor is it surprising that they adhered to the legend that these rocks were sent to earth so that ascetics could retreat and pray.
According to geographers, the appearance of these rocky pinnacles that rise up to 600 meters high dates back 20 million years. If you listen to historians, the locals would have taken refuge in the crevices during the Celtic and Ottoman invasions. Thereafter, Orthodox monks built places of prayer at their summits. Using baskets connected to pulleys, they transported men and goods; stairs were only built in 1920! During the Second World War the monasteries were occupied by the Germans and the monks put up fierce resistance against the enemy.
To this day, these places have not lost their soul, not to mention the frescoes and Byzantine icons crafted with fine gold. Fortunately, the still-active monasteries are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites and are protected as such. Of the 24 existing monasteries, only 6 can be visited. Spread out over a loop 17 km long above the village of Kalamanka, they will amaze you. Although they mainly host summer visitors, I personally recommend seeing them in winter amid the silence of the snow. Their spirituality is then enhanced.
Let's ascend to the Great Meteora otherwise known as the Monastery of Transfiguration. The monastery was built on a platform 600 meters above the ground and therefore offers a dizzying view! Founded in 1356 by Saint Athanasius, it was later remodeled and enlarged by Saint Joseph. It saw its heyday during the 16th century when Theophanes the Cretan created incredible frescoes. Coming from Mount Athos, this painter adorned the walls of many monasteries. He excelled in the so-called post-Byzantine art. Moreover, the meteor houses manuscripts dating from the same period and originating from imperial donations.
Agios Nikolaos. The approach is indeed through steep terrain but through a forest! You will remember this meteor for several reasons. First, it spans three levels, all topped with a belfry. Secondly, Theophanes attached his monogram at the bottom of his frescoes, which is rare. Lastly, at the turn of the 20th century, it housed only five monks and was bombed in 1941. Naturally, the frescoes have been beautifully restored since then.
NB: The work of Theophanes is recognizable by its vivid colors that give them great vivacity.
Agias Triada or the Trinity. Without even knowing it, you have seen the 140 steps that pilgrims take to climb up to this monastery. Indeed, they appear in the 1981 James Bond film "For Your Eyes Only" with Roger Moore. Nowadays, the monks themselves reach the convent by cable car. If the monastery enjoys a special aura, it's because it's the oldest of all. Historians lean towards the 14th century. Unfortunately, although its treasure seemed safe in a niche of its chapel, it was stolen by the Nazis.
Not far away is Agia Stefanos or Saint Stephen's Monastery referred to as "the royal convent." For a change, a modern bridge now allows you to reach the meteor. It's important to know that in the past in its place stood a mobile structure… Additionally, you will be surprised to learn that this is a nunnery. Those who are passionate about icons can visit the on-site workshop. Lastly, this katholikon* houses the relics of a saint which are displayed during processions, but which ones... You marvel at the iconostasis*, a profusion of flowers, animals, and plants. It dates back to 1814 and took 14 years of work by its artisans.
Roussanou. Now I take you to the Monastery of Saint Barbara, which has a peculiarity: here lived the stylites, early Christian hermits who placed their prayer cell at the top of a column. In this way, they got as close as possible to God to pray. You rightly object that they couldn't possibly sleep perched up there; it's because they prayed continuously! It was two brothers, Joseph and Maxime, who initiated the creation of this meteor and a nun restored it with donations from Greeks living in the United States...
Varlaam. If you want to elevate your soul, you will need to climb 197 steps and you will visit the second largest monastery in this region. Since 1961 it has again housed monks. What to say about this place named after the saint Varlaam? Two brothers chose to observe asceticism and were soon joined by their family in this endeavor. In addition to the small museum in what was once the kitchen, take a look at the hoist dating back to 1536! To conclude, you will be surprised to learn that the barrel located in the cellar contains 13000 liters!
iconostasis: wooden or stone partition in churches of the Byzantine rite
katholikon: main building of a monastery of the Orthodox Church