Brittany by Bicycle

I invite you to follow my travel journal and traverse the coasts of North Brittany. Riding along the cycle tourism route offers breathtaking sensations. For about eight days, you pedal effortlessly, captivated by the scenery. You discover, amazed, the abers, these arms of the sea that penetrate inland. At high tide, they fill with water and their shimmering is otherworldly. Prepare yourself for a journey in an untouched environment under a mild oceanic climate. Personally, I chose the stretch between the tip of Roscoff and Saint-Quay-Portrieux, because I find it exceptional.

Once in Roscoff, you understand that this small town was prosperous. In addition to fisheries, linen and hemp sheets were manufactured here, which were used for making ship sails. In the medieval gardens, tall blue agapanthus grow, transporting you to a past era. Roscoff also thrives with the connections to the island of Batz. Wonderful is how one could describe the universe created by Delaselle in his exotic garden. How did the industrialist come to envision such a project in 1886? It’s because sailors brought back essences from their travels to Chile, South Africa... Although the site was already bathed by the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, a seawall was built to contain the wind. Among the present species, you marvel at the hybrid Echiums, standing like blooming cypresses.

During your first stage, you meander through the countryside and come across Saint Pol de Léon, marking the entrance to the Bay of Morlaix. In the Golden Belt, this market gardening region, you ride among the fields of Johnnies. These are the onions that the people from Finistère used to sell in England during the summer in the 19th century. You discover that cauliflowers grow in the sand! Finally, get off your bike at Saint Pol de Léon and taste the savory pancakes - made with wheat flour instead of buckwheat. Now, you are heading towards Morlaix at the back of the bay and the viaduct dominating the estuary. This railway structure, dating back to 1875, miraculously escaped the bombings of World War II. It consists of 14 arches and 9 arcades, offering a breathtaking view of the city. 

Your second stop leads you to Plougasnou, a point known for its beaches among the most beautiful, like Primel which stretches as far as the eye can see. Had you ever seen such fine, white sand? Awarded the Blue Flag, it is a beach perfectly suited for families. Along the way, make a stop at Dourduff-en-mer to taste some oysters. As you head back up the bay towards the East, you enter the bird sanctuary. Offshore, you can make out a string of islets; Brittany has many of them and they are often a nesting place for seabirds. In this case, the site is classified as a marine Natura 2000 area brimming with specimens, some 60,000. With a bit of luck, you might well spot crested cormorants or herring gulls...

For your third stage, aim for Plestin-les-Grèves. Although this leg may seem shorter, the terrain is steep with cliffs overlooking the sea. So, open your eyes wide because the view is well worth the effort. In Locquirec, you will want to capture the moment when the light-saturated estuary dazzles you. Along the way, make a stop at the parish enclosure of Saint Jean-du-Doigt. Thanks to the rise of the textile industry in the 15th century, which brought prosperity to the towns, they competed in magnificence in terms of religious architecture. This is where pardons take place, spectacular gatherings celebrating the saint associated with the place through a procession. These ceremonies, which took place until the 1960s, are more about Celtic rites than Catholic faith.

On the occasion of our 4th stage, let's head towards Lannion, a leg that takes us along the bay of Mont Saint Michel. This time, it’s the soft, diffuse light above the marshes that you will appreciate. Indeed, it radiates a strong spirituality and the Mont in the background adds even more to the magic. You can see the salt meadow sheep grazing on site, their meat tasting of iodine. On your trusty bike, you reach the cliffs of Trédrez and it’s on the greenway that you will finish your stage before joining the historic town of Lannion. Time seems to have stopped in this little town comprising an old convent, a cloister, and narrow alleys. But why these external turrets? They allowed access to private mansions!

Between Lannion and Perros-Guirec, our 5th stage, you notice how the coastline presents a great variety: pink granite rocks sculpted by the sea, patchwork countryside, reed beds, land strewn with gorse and heather... You are also impressed by the ballet of wing foils on the horizon and glimpse a string of islands. There are 7 in total and it’s the lighthouse that guides sailors among them. Only the Île aux Moines, formerly occupied by the Cordeliers, disembarks visitors. To embrace the best panorama, head to Ploumanac’h. Did you know? This former fishing hamlet was designated as the French favorite village in 2015. You stroll between its houses with white gables and gardens lined with purple hydrangeas.

Your sixth stage leads you towards Tréguier. You won’t regret the effort you have put in to reach the plateau. Now you find yourself facing a wild nature strongly reminiscent of the Scottish moors. Moreover, you can fully recover during the descent of the Jaudy estuary. If it once allowed the Vikings to penetrate inland, it has become a migration route for fish species. Who knows? You might see salmon, trout, or lamprey spawning! Finally, look up and you will spot gray herons and shelducks flying towards the nearby bird sanctuary.

Tréguier, a picturesque city from which you will head to Paimpol. It indeed boasts significant architectural heritage including an abbey. Additionally, it contains a geological curiosity, the Talbert Strip. This coastal spit over 3 km long, resembling a jetty above the water, forms a paradise for shellfish gathering: cockles, clams, scallops … Then you reach Paimpol, a coastal community and fishing port facing the English Channel. The small town holds some lovely surprises like the charming manor of Kerdalo. The owner, an enthusiastic botanist, employed well-known nurseries, and the remarkable garden is even listed in the inventory of Historical Monuments. It houses, among other things, some rare specimens of conifers.

Paimpol/Saint-Quay-Portrieux via Bréhat. As the influx is strong, prefer the intermediate seasons to visit the archipelago. It was from here that the fleet of privateers-pirates at the service of the king who wreaked havoc on the Atlantic set off. It was also from Bréhat that the Newfoundland fishermen, who fished for cod and whales in the Icelandic waters, departed. On the road to Saint-Quay, you are amazed by the cliffs of Plouha, which rise over 100 m high. As for the seaside resort, it boasts posh villas and I confess to having a soft spot for its seawater pool, a technical marvel for a basin dating back to 1929 and which even brushes the standards of an Olympic pool!