Euskadi, the Basque Country in all its splendor

The Basque Country never ceases to amaze, starting with its language, which is not Indo-European !

I don't know if you have ever attended a Basque pelota game. If not, I recommend trying this exhilarating experience and especially betting! For my part, I remembered the scenes of Ramuntcho, the novel character by Pierre Loti. Slender, dressed entirely in white, he grabs the pelota in his chistera and without stopping, he sketches a natural movement and there it shoots towards the opposing team. What I did not know during my reading, and what I had to learn during this game from an enthusiast, is that the pelotas sometimes reach 300 km/h!

Welcome to a land filled with frontons where children try their hand at pelota from an early age. The fascination with the Basque Country also lies in its geography: here, the foothills of the Pyrenees stretch into the Atlantic. Few places feature these two types of terrain, and one can watch the breaking waves from the Corniche road between Saint Jean de Luz and Hendaye.

The balls sometimes reach 300 km/h!

Saint Jean, it was the painter Sorolla who managed to capture it with his beach scenes: children swimming, the sails of fishing boats billowing in the wind... Accessible on foot from the pedestrianized town, the Grande Plage Sud is favored by vacationers. It must be acknowledged that its beach huts give it a quaint charm, reminiscent of Mr. Hulot's holiday!

Having attended a midnight mass at the Saint Jean Baptiste cathedral, the fervor of the Basques is palpable in their songs. Louis XIV and the Infanta Maria Theresa were married in this Labourd-style church in 1660. They were then 21 years old!

The city also has Basque linen shops recognizable by its bayadère which consisted of 7 stripes representing the 7 regions of the Basque Country. The weaving is still done on site and thanks to the humid climate, the linen thread does not break!

Finally, make a gourmet stop at maison Adam and treat yourself to a Basque cake filled with cream or cherries ! However, you will encounter the soul of the place at the fish markets, where you will meet Basques, berets on their heads, speaking their language. You have to see the stalls brimming with anchovies, hake, or bonito to believe it.  Let's not forget that Saint Jean is an ancient tuna fishing port. Moreover, artisanal fishing is practiced on board a ligneur - a small boat equipped with hook lines.  

Before telling you about Biarritz, let me mention some important figures such as Peter Viertel who introduced surfing in 1956 to Biarritz. He was soon followed by Joël de Rosnay, and thus the tontons surfeurs were born. That's why the city boasts 18 surf schools. Take the opportunity to get acquainted with this lifestyle! It's the Marbella spot that draws experienced surfers but also candidates for the... casetas : Basque parties!

In Biarritz, the beaches unfold, each more splendid than the last: Plage des Basques, Milady, Ilbarritz... By the way, what is that building perched on the hill? It is the residence of Baron de l’Espée, an eccentric who had a villa built around a monumental organ in 1898! But that’s not all, imagine that the residence had the latest technological advances of the time: for example, it produced its own electricity! From the three-level casino that overlooks the Grand Plage, you enjoy a flawless view of the ocean and the emerging rocks.

For my part, I appreciate even more the illuminated path that winds towards the Rock of the Virgin, a natural curiosity connected to the mainland by an Eiffel footbridge. Why was a niche carved into this rock to place a Madonna? Legend has it that during a storm, Biarritz whalers miraculously managed, guided by divine light, to reach land safely.

In gratitude, they erected a statue of the Virgin Mary which they placed at the entrance of the harbor! How can one mention Biarritz without mentioning the Hôtel du Palais, the former residence of Napoleon III? Empress Eugénie, the wife of Napoleon III, had fallen in love with Biarritz. She had made it her summer retreat. Moreover, if you look closely at the layout of the palace, it forms an E!

Apart from the cities, the Basque Country also includes extraordinary villages like Espelette with its pepper that explorers brought back from South America in their luggage. I must admit I love the chocolate-pepper mix! Speaking of which, it is often unknown, but it was Columbus who introduced chocolate into our diet!

In the hilly village-street of Ainhoa, do not miss the Ainhoa gingerbreads with candied orange. (Shh! The address is only known to the Basques). Lastly, here you will meet hikers as the place serves as a starting point for walking trails. Also, do not miss under any circumstances Saint Jean Pied-de-Port- a popular stop on the route to Saint James of Compostela!

If I tell you that Winston Churchill adored this place, you would say: Sare! It is from here that the little train climbs towards the Rhune mountain which peaks at 900m. To ascend this magical mountain, we have kept the Stub cog railway! Moreover, a wonderful surprise awaits you at its summit: an augmented reality orientation table! Perhaps you will be able to spot some free-roaming pottocks, those sturdy Basque ponies! Once there, if you are curious, make a detour to the prehistoric caves of Sare which offer an underground tour with sound and light! Check the schedule because workshops are regularly organized where you can leave your handprint on the walls!

NB: thrill-seekers, I have just what you need: the Holzarte suspension bridge in the town of Larrau, which spans a canyon about 100 meters above the ground!

Straddling the Spanish border, Hendaye beach stretches as far as the eye can see. The 3 KM waterfront showcases half-timbered Basque villas. Once passed down to the eldest child to keep the estate intact, they boast imposing proportions and adhere to mandated colors: dark red, Prussian blue, or deep green. Hendaye was once a luxury seaside resort until the 1930s with its tram, casino, and Galeries Lafayette... Kite surfing and paddleboarding enthusiasts have taken over the area, and personally, I practiced land sailing there as a child.

Nevertheless, what I cherish most is the crossing to Hondarribia by shuttle. In 15 minutes, you reach this medieval fishing village and you can gaze at the rocky promontory at Charles V's castle, now converted into a parador! Settle down in one of its little squares to drink a vermouth or orgeat syrup, Spain shows its horn here! Since it's a border, there was extensive smuggling: coffee, cocoa, wine… In this regard, the Basques will rightly tell you that the border remains, in their eyes, a rather abstract notion. Indeed, in Loti's novel, a son adopted by the Basque Country, Ramuntcho practices it unashamedly!

San Sebastián in the Spanish Basque Country is renowned for its shell-shaped Concha beach. Travel and Leisure magazine declared it the second-best urban beach in the world. However, another beach, Ondarreta, which I equally appreciate, attracts body surfers for its waves! If you enjoy gastronomy, you will be comfortable in this Spanish Basque city. On one hand, you can taste the pintxos or tapas sold in lively bars made with serrano or omelette. On the other hand, San Sebastián has starred restaurants. Arzak for its molecular cuisine desserts, Berasategui with Asian inspiration, and Akelarre on the slope of Mount Igueldo. On this hill, do not miss the quaint amusement park which includes the Swiss Mountain or the Avenue of Laughter...

Do not hesitate to take the funicular dating back to 1912 to get there and travel back in time! The upscale atmosphere of Donostia will tempt you to splurge: elegant clothing boutiques, home decor, and gourmet food shops are all here! Finally, I would like to recommend an event that takes place off the coast of San Sebastián in August. Are you giving up? It's an international fireworks competition that can be admired from a motorboat, a truly graceful moment!

Those who saw Bilbao as just another Spanish industrial city must have been surprised! With the arrival of the Guggenheim Museum in 1997, dedicated to modern and contemporary art, the city experienced a renaissance. Frank Gehry designed the museum. With titanium plates that resemble crumpled paper yet shimmer in the sky, the city is well worth a visit. Indeed, art enthusiasts flock there during major exhibitions, such as the one dedicated to Olafur Eliasson...

With the arrival of the Guggenheim Museum in 1997 dedicated to modern and contemporary art, the city experienced a renaissance.

It was at the Guggenheim in Bilbao that I first observed the works of Richard Serra. These were monumental oxidized sheets arranged on the floor like a labyrinth. Beside the museum stands Jeff Koons' immense Puppy, covered with multicolored flowers. For lovers of art and design, a walk has been arranged within the park adjacent to the museum: Abandoibarra. Furthermore, a civic center has been redesigned by Philip Starck, named Azkuna. Finally, do not forget to visit the Bizkai bridge, a gem of industrial architecture declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.